Lenin Peak 7134m

Mountaineering Expedition

Scheme of standard program Bishkek-Bishkek

Scheme of standard program Osh-Osh

Note: Duration of programme can be changed by request. 

Route description:

Classic Route via Razdelnaya Peak

From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“Wild Onion Meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier for a further 5km to the altitude of 4200m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the "Skovorodka" (“Frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Some relatively steep (45º+) parts of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section the traverse to Camp 2 begins. Camp 2 is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300m. Approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200m to Camp 2 at 5300m is 6-8 hours. This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat. 

From Camp 2 at 5300m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100m. Approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harnesses are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 at 6100m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400m where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required. Above this plateau is a short, very steep snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope, though an ice axe may be necessary. Care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre-summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134m. Approximate time from Camp 3 to summit, including return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.

Conditions and notes:

• Prices are valid for groups booked and fully paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier. In the case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) an extra charge of US$70 per person is charged for formalities.
• For individuals and groups of up to 4 climbers transport from Osh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh is provided on a shared basis and the day of transfer is variable depending on demand. The departure schedule of transfers should be reconfirmed with ITMC in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 15th or departure after August 20th an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.
• Climbers are responsible for providing their own personal mountaineering gear and for choosing their own tactics for ascent.
• Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserve the right to change airfares without prior notice (ITMC has no control over this and is not responsible for any changes or inconvenience incurred).
• The Domestic Flight baggage allowance is 15kg per person, overweight  in excess of this is charged at US$1/kg.
• If expedition groups prefer to send mountaineering gear/equipment to Bishkek or Osh in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh. Please contact ITMC directly for further detail..
• Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum cover of US$40,000