Ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995m - ITMC Travel

Adventure & cultural tours in Kyrgyzstan

Ascent to Khan-Tengri Peak, 6995m

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Best season: July 15 – August 30

Mountaineering Expedition

It is recommended to reserve first 2 days for walks on glacier in the area of Base Camp for acclimatization.

Move to Camp 1 at 4200 m. 
Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx. 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4200 m). It takes 2-4 hours. And it is usual to leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start the next day. On the glacier there are no serious dangers except small rivers with swift streams. It is recommended to go around the rivers or cross it with safety equipment in snowed places.

Move to Camp 2.
Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371 m), which increases under daytime sun, we advise a very early start. The ascent follows the steep, narrow Semenovsky Glacier icefall to its upper reaches. To minimise the risk from icefall it is important to pass this part of the ascent very fast and before sunrise. Ideally, you pass the icefall by 7:30am, and reach Camp 2 by 12pm. Be aware of crevasses on the way and move only as a roped team. Camp 2 can be pitched just below the west col at an altitude of about 5300 m. There is usually a snow cave at this point that may be used (on a “first come, first served” basis). The risk of icefall is bigger after mid August.

During acclimatisation we recommend two nights at Camp 2, so climbers ascend to 6200 m – 6500 m before descending to the Base Camp for rest.

From Camp 2 the route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three metre wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope.

After acclimatization in Camp 2, and rest in Base Camp, for the second ascent it is possible to ascend from Base Camp to Camp 3 in one day.

Camp 3 can be pitched at an altitude of 6400 m on the ridge, but space is limited and the location can be somewhat exposed, the ridge being prone to violent north winds. It takes from 3 to 6 hours to move from Camp 2 to Camp 3 depending on the amount of snow. 

From Camp 3 the ascent route goes up a small path on the right before reaching a large 150 m dihedral. This is the most technically difficult section of the ascent, but it is protected by fixed ropes.

The summit can be reached from Camps 2 or 3. From Camp 3 it takes 4-10 hours. Start from Camp 3 is recommended at 4 am. Wind in the summit area summit reduces between 12:00 and 14:00. Descent to Base Camp can be made in one a long day. 

Conditions and notes:

  • Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose ascent tactics themselves.
  • Usually, the organization providing the Khan-Tengri – Maida-Adyr helicopter only confirms helicopter prices in May, just before the season. In case of significant price rises for helicopter flights (10% or more) ITMC reserves the right to change their programme price accordingly. In any case the question of price will be solved by mutual consent.
  • Helicopter baggage limit is 30 kg per person (approx. one rucksack per person). If you plan to have more than 70 kg of overweight, inform us in advance please, so we can check the total weight on your flight. The price for overweight baggage is EUR 2 per kg.
  • Helicopters in Inylchek glacier area usually operate from July 15 till August 30 and sometimes till September 10.
  • If an expedition group decides to send mountaineering kit to Bishkek or Karakol in advance, ITMC can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Karakol. For more details please contact us.
  • Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of USD 40 000. 

Clients statement

ITMC insistently advises all participants of hiking, climbing and mountaineering to be aware of and accept possible risks of personal injury or death that might be caused by the afore mentioned activities. Participants should be responsible for their own actions and involvement. 

Standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek:

Days

Itinerary:

Accommodation

1.

International flight to Bishkek.

2.

Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (430 km, 7-8 hrs).

Hotel 2* / Guest House

3.

Transfer from Karakol to Maida-Adyr (180 км, 5 hrs) via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m). Overnight in the cottages at 2500 m.

Maida-Adyr Camp

4.

Helicopter flight to either Southern or Northern Khan-Tengri Base Camp, (~ 25 min). Overnight in tents at 4100 м.

Base Camp Tents

5-19.

Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).

 

20.

Return helicopter flight from Base Camp to Maida-Adyr (~25 min).

Land transfer to Karakol (180 км, 5 hrs).

Hotel 2* / Guest House

21.

Transfer to Bishkek (430 km, 7-8 hrs). Transfer to airport. Departure.

 

Standard programme Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr:

Days

Itinerary:

Accommodation

1.

Helicopter flight to either Southern or Northern Khan-Tengri Base Camp, (~ 25 min). Overnight in climber’s own tents at 4100 м.

2-16.

Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).

17.

Return helicopter flight from Base Camp to Maida-Adyr (~ 25 min).

 

Notes:    Duration of programme can be changed by request.

A DISCOUNT applies to groups of 7 persons or more for the Bishkek – Bishkek programme.

Prices 2021:

Standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek (21 days)

USD 2220 per person

Standard programme Maida-Adyr (Karkara) – Maida-Adyr (Karkara) (17 days)

USD 1310 per person

Standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek includes the following services

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration with the passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit
  • Registration with the local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of Ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Return land transfer from Bishkek airport to Karakol
  • Return land transfer from Karakol to Maida-Adyr by 4WD vehicle
  • Return Helicopter flight Maida-Adyr – Khan-Tengri Base Camp
  • Accommodation:

   – – in Karakol: Hotel 2* or Guest House (incl. breakfast) – 2 nights

   – – in Maida-Adyr Camp: Cottage (2-4 people sharing basis, incl. breakfast) – 1 night

   – – in Khan-Tengri Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

  • Full board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp – 7 days
  • Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri Peak (Chapaev Peak)
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in the Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
  • Assistance with changing departure dates of air tickets. Air company amendment fees are paid only. 

Standard programme Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr 

  • Visa support (if required)
  • Registration with passport department OVIR (if required)
  • Border permit
  • Registration with the local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of Ascent issued by the Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Return helicopter flight Maida-Adyr – Khan-Tengri Base Camp – Maida-Adyr
  • Accommodation in climbers’ own tents in Base Camp
  • Fixed ropes on part of the route to Khan-Tengri (Chapaev Peak)
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply, radio-communication with Base Camp during ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation with experienced Guides
  • Assistance changing departure dates of air tickets. Air company amendment fees are paid only. 

 Service available for extra price (not included):

  •  Transfer / flight from Almaty or Tashkent to Bishkek    
  •  One way land transfer Bishkek – Karakol $ 280 per transfer by minibus, 8 persons max
  •  One way land transfer Karakol – Maidaadyr/Karkara    $ 160 per transfer by UAZ, 3 persons max
  •  One way land transfer Karakol – Maidaadyr                 $ 320 per transfer by GAZ-66, 16 persons max
  •  Baggage delivery from Maida-Adyr to Khan-Tengri Base Camp $5 per kg

Note: Baggage is delivered by scheduled flight

  •  Shared helicopter flight Maida-Adyr – Base Camp       $ 400 per person, one way

NB: Schedule is floating and should be reconfirmed

  •  Helicopter show-flight in area of Inylchek Glacier         $ 1950 per half an hour flight
  •  Meals: Full Board in Maida-Adyr Camp                       $ 40 per person per day
  •  Meals: Full Board in Khan-Tengri Base Camp             $ 65 per person per day
  •  Bar
  •  Accommodation in Bishkek:

  Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room $ 80, standard single room $70 incl. breakfast

Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, and Guest Houses are available by request.

 Equipment for rent (tent, sleeping mat, gas canisters and gas stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)

  •  Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type:              $ 12 per canister (230 gr)
  • Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear):     

                    Mountain Guide: $ 3500 per programme

                    Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards:              $ 4200 per programme

NB: We recommend minimum guide to client ratio 1:2 maximum. For group of 3 clients we advise to have the second Guide. Minimum $ 2000 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will.

– Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (available in Bishkek only – safety deposit $300 is required): $ 20 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)

– Use of sat phone and internet in Base Camp is paid according to price list

– Acclimatization programme on Ak-Sai Glacier

– Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Issyk-Kul Lake

– Excursions in Bishkek, Karakol, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

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