CLIMBING LENIN PEAK – DESCRIPTION, TACTICS, RECOMMENDATIONS, INSURANCE

Ascent to Lenin Peak, 7134m, Pamir mountains, Kyrgyzstan

Best season: July – August

Type of the tour: Mountaineering Expedition

Lenin Peak (7,134m) is one of easiest of the World peaks over 7000m. It’s situated in Zaalaisky Range of Pamir mountains on the border between Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan.

There is an International Airport in the biggest City of the region Osh. It is 290 km from Osh City to the Base Camp (BC) at Achiktash plateau.

The road to Lenin Peak goes via Osh – Gulcha village – Taldyk pass – Sary–Tash village – Kashka-Suu village – Achik-Tash plateau. 255 km of 290 are paved highway and 35 km is gravel road.

It takes about 5-7 hours by car from Osh to Achik-Tash. 

In 2018 there was Anniversary jubilee of 90 years first ascent.

Abbreviations:

BC – base camp in Achik-Tash tract at an altitude of 3600 m

ABC – advanced base camp on the left side moraine of the Lenin glacier at an altitude of 4200 m

C1 – high-altitude camp No.1 at an altitude of 5200 m

C2 – high-altitude camp No.2 at the height of 6150 m on the Razdelnaya peak.

3600m – ABCamp, 4300m

It is possible to get from BC to Lukovaya polyana (onion glade) by foot or by car (6 km). From Lukovaya Glade the trail goes southwest along the rocky ridge up to the Puteshestvennikov pass (Travellers’ pass). The ascent takes about 1 – 1.5h. Further the trail goes downhill for 15-20 min and then for about 30-60 min it goes along the same ridge with a slight climb up to the crossing point. The crossing of the river is usually not a problem in the morning when the water level is not high and it is possible to cross by jumping over the stones. However, in the hot afternoon the water level is increasing and river crossing can become very difficult and dangerous. After the river the trail follows for 1.5 – 2 h on the moraines till ABCamp. In total it takes about 3-5 hours to get from BC till ABC.

АВС, 4300m – Camp 1 (С1), 5200m

The trail to Camp 1 first goes in direction to the centre of the northern slope of Lenin peak then up to Lenin glacier and follows up to the beginning of ascent. This part of the glacier and moraines is rather flat. There are some scours and cracks which can be easily avoided. It takes about 45-60 min from ABC to the beginning of the ascent. The ascent follows icy northern slopes covered with ice with the angle of 15º -30º which at some parts become 40º. There are some deep wide crevasses which can be traversed. Narrow cracks can be jumped over or crossed by the snow bridges. After this part of the trail the path goes along the slope into syncline (5000m) and further along the slope in southwest and west direction into C1. Starting from the ascent and up to C1 it is necessary to proceed in rope team. The ascent time is 5-9 hours.

C1 (5200m) – C2, Razdelnaia (6148m)

From C1 the ascent goes to the left of rocks up to the shoulder of the range to Razdelnaia. The steepness of the slope is 15º-30º. C2 is situated on the left side in 100 meters from the Razdelnaya summit. The ascent takes up to 4-7 hours.

С2 (Razdelnaia). 6148m – the Lenin peak, 7134 m – С2

Taking the climbers have good acclimatization it usually takes 1 day to hike from C1 up to the summit and back. First there is a short descent to the saddle between Razdelnaya and C3 of Lenin peak range. The ascent goes from the ridge up the snowy slope with occasional access to the rocks and narrow flat ridge up to the summit. To guarantee the successful ascent usually C3 is set up here at the altitude of 6400m. Further the trail takes up the ridge to the narrow 100m long ascent with 20º-30º steepness called “the knife”.

It is compulsory to use harness at this stage. Follow the ridge up to the pre-summit plateau (6900-7000m) and continue up to the summit along the flat snowy slopes and scree. Tour in the shape of Lenin bust is located a little bit lower of the summit, which is 100 m to southeast. The descent follows the acsent trail. It is strongly recommended for ascent to start off from C2 as early as possible, not later than 5 am. The time of ascent and descent is 10-14 hours.

Technically the route is not difficult, but summiting depends on the choice of tactics. Among the main difficulties and hazards are the altitude, crevasses, avalanches and bad weather. Proper acclimatization becomes of the main significance. Climbing experience of the Lenin peak proves that the most appropriate acclimatization is 2 goes with 1-2 nights in C1 and C2 and descend to the BC for good rest.

The ascent during acclimatization should be consecutive to the increasing altitude. Acclimatization hikes should start very early – before 5 am. Start from C2 to summit is recommended don’t later 3 AM.

Acclimatization is often combined with transporting and setting up of intermediate camps. If mountaineers lack climbing experience at the altitude it is strongly recommended to go on acclimatization climbs with experienced mountain guides or instructors. Also if climbers do not feel confident in their strength and experience it is advised to set up additional camp at the altitude of 6400m.

Among the technical skills ensuring safety there are command of the language and skills on eliminating and minimizing different hazardous factors of the ascent. These are the following:

Ice crevasses from ABC to C1 which require skills of climbing in rope team on the glaciers, crossing snow bridges over the crevasses, conducting search and rescue with disposed equipment and skills on self-rescue from crevasses;

Skills of identifying avalanche hazard, crossing of the avalanche-prone slopes, search in avalanche, skills on operating avalanche trackers;

Transportation of the injured person using disposed equipment;

First aid skills. For ensuring the effective search and rescue operation it is necessary to register with the relevant rescue company (www.rescue.travelasia.kg ) at least 1 month before the climbing and also possess the proper insurance policy (up to EUR30000) covering possible rescue works.