Kyrgyz Range - ITMC Travel

Adventure & cultural tours in Kyrgyzstan

Kyrgyz Range

0 Comments

Climbing routes of Ak-Say Glacier area (Ala-Archа George of Kyrgyz Range, Tien-Shan)

Status at July 10, 2017.

Routes count according grades (Russian grades):

1B – 8, 2А – 13, 2B – 4, 3А – 14, 3B -11, 4А – 10, 4B – 18, 5А – 33, 5B – 40, 6А – 11, Σ- 162 ( from its Korona Peak 38 routes, Svobodnaia Korea (Free Korea) Peak 25 routes).

Accounted as classified routes, as non classified routes (marked by *). Estimation of non classified routes was done according of first ascent team estimation. First ascent in the area was done on 1938 by V.Ozarovskii on Uchitel Peak.

Fig. 1. Orographik Scheme of Ak-Say Glacier area, Ala-Archa Gorge, Kyrgyz Range. Peak numbers on the Scheme:

1 – Pioneer Peak, 2 -Komsomolets Peak, 3 – Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4 – Olega Koshevogo Peak, 5 – Uchitel (Ticher) Peak, 6 – Baichichikey Peak, 7 – Skriabina Peak, 8 – Semionova Tien-Shanskogo Peak, 9 – Korona west Peak, 10 – Korona Peak, 11 – Izyskatel Peak, 12 – Dvurogaia Peak, 13 – Kosmonavtov Peak, 14 – Bailian-Bashi Peak, 15 – Skriabina Peak, 16 – Svobodnaia Korea (Free Korea) Peak, 17 – Ak-Too Peak, 18 – Trezubets Peak, 19 – Teke-Tor Peak, 20 – Ratseka Peak, 21 – Boks Peak, 22 – Pero Peak. Buildings in the area: I -Natural Park Ala-Archa, II – Ak-Say hut on Ratsek Stop, Nauka hut, Korona hut.

 

List of summits and routes Peak number on the map, name , altitude meters, numbers of photos
Route # on a photoFirst climbing team leader, routeGradeYear
1. Pioneer Peak, 4050, #1, photo#1 
1.1Marechek B. (from N)2A1950
1.2from Kashka-Su Pass 
1.3along W Ridge 
2. Komsomolets Peak, 4134 
2.1from Fioletovyi (Violet) Pass 
2.2from Kashka-Su Pass 
3. Pavlika Morozova Peak, 4200, photo #2 
3.1from Fioletovyi Pass over red m-t2A1949
2.2along W Ridge 
4. Olega Koshevogo Peak, 4300, #4 
4.1from N to S3A 
4.2from S to N3A 
5. Uchitel (Teacher) Peak, 4527, Photos #3 and 7 
5.1Ozaroskii V.1938
5.2Schlunegger A. W cul. and S range2A*2011
Photo 1. Pioneer Peak, 4050 m. Photo from S.
Photo 2. Pavlik Morozov Peak, 4200 m.
Photo 3. Uchitel (Teacher) Peak, 4527 m.
Photo 4. Uchitel (left), Baichichikey (centre), Skriabina (right) Peaks.
6. Baichichikey (Snowdrop) Peak, 4515, photos #4,5,6
6.1left culuar of W wall2А*1969
6.2Seliverstov S.2012
6.3Ilushenko A.1989
6.4Kuzmenko B.1977
6.5Dashkevich S.2007
6.6Pavlenko D.5А*2010
6.7Poliak V.1983
6.8Kalashnikov A.5А*1986
6.9Shvab A.1980
6.10Mikhailov M.5А*1999
6.11Chechulin A., Korneev A.4A*2008
6.12Moskaliov A. From E1948
Photo 5. Baichichikey Peak, 4515 m.
Photo 6. Baichichikey Peak, 4515 m.

 

List of summits and routes Peak number on the map, name , altitude meters, numbers of photos
Route # on a photoFirst climbing team leader, routeGradeYear
8. Skriabina Peak, 4753, photo #7 and 8 
7.1along W Ridge3A 
7.2Evsukov G.3A1972
Photo 7. Skriabina and Semenova T-Sh Peaks
8. Semionova T-Sh Peak, 4895, photos #8 and 9
8.1Plakuschev I.1987
8.2Маркевич К.5Аз2015
8.3Fedorov A.2013
8.4Nagovitsyna E.1999
8.5Zakharov N.1988
8.6Dashkevich A.5Аз2011
8.7Nikifirenko O.1988
8.8Plotnikov I. Right part of W wall5A1996
8.9Eropunov A.1952
8.10Shubin A.1950
8.11Ghubaev A.1987
8.12Pototsky A. Mark Aitken4А*2015
Photo 8. Semenova T-Sh Peak, 4895 m.
Korona West Peak, 4300, photo #10
9.1Fedorov A.4Aз
9.2Seliverstov S.5Аз2013
9.3Dashkevich S.4Бз2010
9.4Novoseltsev E.2002
9.5Seliverstov S/ (solo)5Аз2013
9.6Brown W. М6+2012
9.7Akimov V.1994
9.8Syschikov A. From SW2014
      
Photo 9. Korona and Korona West Peaks
Korona Peak, 1st buttress, 4840, #10, photo #10 and 11
10.1Gavrilov B.1956
10.2?1989
10.3Pavlenko D. (solo)2009
10.4Koroliev V.1980
10.5Popov F.1976
10.6Plotnikov I.1995
10.7Smirnov U.1962
10.8Ruchkin A.2000
10.9Seliverstov S., Akbuiukov D.5Аз2014
10.10Kavughin K.1982
10.11Ruchkin A.(solo)2000
10.12Plotnikov i.1995
10.13Belobachenko E.1976
10.14Bashmnov Iu.,along chimney from W1980
Photo 10. Korona and Izyskatel Peaks.
Buttress of Korona Peak, #10, photo 11
10.15S?
10.16N?
Photo 11. Korona (4, 5 and 6 buttress) and Dvurogaia Peaks

 

Full version